GTTSR: Day Three

Wow, what a day.

High speed runs with Jaguars leading Muscle Cars, “Deer on the road!”… “stuff on the road!”, IDIOTS on the road!, an awesome lunch with the Igniters in Libby, cooler weather on the “wet side”, the “Better Than Sex Highway” a car wash, a serendipitous meeting with a reader of this blog(!), and a wonderful evening of music and huckleberries!

I’m too tired to relate it all now, but I promise to back-fill the story later. Really!

In the meantime, you can look at all my pictures here.

GTTSR: Day Two

Day two of the Going To The Sun Rally dawned with an excellent breakfast at the Spanish Peaks Club, followed by a group photo with a selection of the cars, including the 65E (proudly plastered with bugs!) The photographers were up on a crane, with the cars below, and the people up on the balcony above. It went pretty well, and we stayed there for the driver’s meeting.

After I had parked my car, but before the group photo, I walked around and shot some car photos, including the one below. It is a Sunbeam Tiger, reflected in the finish of a Shelby GT350-H (the original from the 60s). I took a bunch of other shots too, which you can see via the usual “all my photos” link at the bottom of this post.

While the official photogs shot the big group photo, I squeezed off a shot of some folks and cars below. So when you see the final product, you can spot me on the balcony above by this arrangement below. 😉

The Driver’s Meeting commenced right afterwards, and I took the above picture as people listened.

We all left the Spanish Peaks Club and headed out of Big Sky. We took a detour to our friend’s house to say “bye” to my Mom and drop off some excess stuff. We then fuelled up at the Conoco station on US 191 and headed north. The drive down the Canyon was wonderful, though crowded. The Gallatin Canyon is no longer the sleepy place it was when I was a kid.

We took a left at Gallatin Gateway and made for Ennis. Unfortunately it was still very smoky from forest fires and the spectacular Montana Rockies were obscured in the smoky haze. Along the way I zipped along at “Ludicrous Speed” with a race-prepped Sunbeam Tiger. I lost him when he passed a truck, which I got stuck behind due to Murphy’s Law of Mountain Driving (“the solid yellow line will not leave your lane until oncoming traffic appears.”) I did however overtake the Davis’ very nice old red Corvette and manage to catch some photos of it as we approached Virginia City.

David E. Davis is the editor of Winding Road The car mag that printed my letter last week. It was cool to meet him, and we’ve had a few opportunities to converse with him and his wife this week. Great folks. Nice car too.

We had a scheduled break in Virginia City, one of the old territorial capitals of Montana, and a place steeped in old west history. I haven’t been there since I was about 8 years old, but to be honest, I spent most of my time here today shooting photos of rally cars. The sacrifices I make for my readers! Here is a sample:

You can see the rest in my “all photos” link below.

After the break we took some wonderful roads through southwest Montana (minus a short run on I-15) and on to lunch in Jackson.

Lunch was a sandwich buffet, which really hit the spot for me, with some iced tea. I also had a chance to say something I’ve always wanted to. Two folks that my Dad knows from other vintage rallies were having car troubles. One was driving a Corvette and the other an Olds 442. Both muscle cars were having carburetion and fuel consumption issues, perhaps due to the altitude. The E-type has been running well and using gas at a very reasonable rate (17-20 MPG, amazing given our occasional high speed runs!) So I leaned over and said:

“You should really get rid of those unreliable American cars and get yourselves one of these Jaguars!” 😉

After lunch we went 20-some miles to the next town (Wisdom MT) to get gas.

It was funny because when we arrived this gas station had FOUR Jaguars fuelling up, two XK 150s and two E-types. The locals were all staring at us in disbelief. The Healey pictured above showed up as we were leaving, altering the all-Jaguar chemistry. It was still like being on Mars for the locals, who rarely see anything but pickup trucks.

We actually saw a bit of rain as we approached Lost Trail Pass. I hope it puts out the fires, but I doubt it. It was refreshing to get hit with a few big cold drops though!

We climbed up to Lost Trail Pass, and joined US 93 which took us down into the Bitterroot valley, and Darby, Hamilton, and Missoula. This was a familiar road for both me and the 65E, as it was how my son and I passed into Montana back in 2003 on our summer roadtrip. This valley gets more populated as you travel northwards, so progress was frustrating compared to the open roads of earlier in the day. The smoke was again pretty thick, with sights such as Trapper Peak being almost completely obscured. If I didn’t know exactly where to look I would not have seen its vague outline in the haze. My dad drove from lunch to Hamilton, and I took advantage of the situation and limited navigational duties and took a little nap. This is not an easy car to sleep in (unless you are a nine year old!) but I somehow managed 40 winks somewhere between Darby and Hamilton. We switched drivers in Hamilton and I drove the rest of the way to Missoula. After being on the open roads, Missoula was a bit frustrating, but we managed to find the hotel. As is to refute my statement earlier, the 65E started idling fast (1200 RPM). We’d dropped a lot of altitude since I had adjusted the SUs a bit in Big Sky, as when we arrived it was idling too slow (300-400 RPM). Thankfully the SU carburettor is a stunningly simple design, and I was able to get all three adjusted within a minute or two and idling well at 700 RPM.

We checked in and went to the room, where I did some photo editing before dinner. Dinner was awesome. I once again was about to order salmon when the little voice inside my head said “You are in Montana ferchrissakes, take the beef!” So I ordered the rib eye, and it was awesome. I’ll start eating salmon again when I get back to the Seattle area. 😉

I even had enough time tonight to throw some basic captions onto my “all photos” page! You can ssee them all here.

See you tomorrow!

–chuck

GTTSR: Day One

Today was the first actual day of the Going To The Sun Rally. We basically retraced our drive from yesterday, going back to Big Sky from Red Lodge. This time I have fresh batteries in my camera and was able to capture (just slightly) the awesome beauty of the Beartooth Highway. Unfortunately it was very hazy from forest fires, so the mountains were kind of barely visible. I focussed my efforts on capturing the road.

We left Red Lodge among the last rallyists, stopped for gas, and caught up to a few on the climb up the Montana side of the mountains. The road gains nearly 6000 vertical feet. The car ran great, and I had Dad driving so I could shoot photos. Wherever there was something to see, I had him stop so I could shoot more.

I had Dad stop at the exact place where my camera batteries died, so I could re-climb the rock pinnacle and shoot the panorama I started when the batteries failed me. I also had him perform a drive-by so I could capture it on “film“. Let me know what you think.

After the Beartooth Highway, we went into Yellowstone, and went for the West Entrance, skipping the “sights” as we’ve both seen them before. It was at this time that we passed most of the rally. We did stop at “Tuff Cliff” and ate a box lunch supplied by the rally. On the way we saw a zillion bison in the Lamar and Madison valleys. In fact in the Madison we had two of them on the road! (see the photos linked below.)

We left the Park, and bombed up US 191 to Big Sky, stopped to see my Mom, and then up to the Spanish Peaks Club for dinner (awesome) and a place to sleep. I’m too tired to provide much more info, so this is all you get today. 😉

You can see all my photos from today here. There are a LOT of them. 😉

–chuck

GTTSR: Arrival

What an awesome day.

We slept in a bit, enjoyed a great breakfast at our friend’s house in Big Sky. After breakfast I took her for a ride in the Jaguar, heading up to where I spent my summers as a kid. Then Dad & I packed the car and headed out. Down US 191, to West Yellowstone, and into The Park. I am very familiar with Yellowstone, having driven through it innumerable times on my way to Montana, and also having extensively travelled in the backcountry on foot in the 70s and 80s. I had not visited the park since the huge fires in 1989, so this was an interesting drive. Areas that used to be Lodgepole pines as thick as hair on a bear’s back were now cleared and just now beginning to grow back. Vistas that previously were obscured, were now open. In the Madison Valley, and elsewhere. Very interesting. The speed limits are low (25-45 MPH) in Yellowstone, so we just ambled along and enjoyed the views. We saw lots of elk and bison.

Above: The E-type below Mammoth Hot Springs.

Above: Heading out towards the Northeast Entrance. (I scraped an exhaust hanger on this roadbed getting back on.)

We took the north loop road, over to Mammoth Hot Springs, then over through the Lamar Valley. We then proceeded out of the park via the Northeast Entrance and US 212 over the Beartooth Highway. I have never driven (but always wanted to!) the Beartooth. It is spec-frikking-tacular. We switchbacked up through mountain lakes and peaks, ever upward. Once at the first summit I snapped off the panorama you see at the top of the page. I then scrambled up to a rocky peak above it and started building a more impressive panorama shot when my camera batteries died! Grrrrr! I climbed back down, frustrated, and found the car would not start due to the starter being completely heatsoaked. GRRRR! Two guys on bikes helped us get it pushed around and pointed back downhill (thankfully it is a very lightweight car!) and the ample grade made a roll start an easy thing. Without a camera I could not capture the rest but I have to say it is THE MOST AMAZING road I have EVER driven. Thankfully we are retracing our route from today again tomorrow, so I’ll be sure to get a lot of shots! I promise. In fact, I’m going to make my Dad drive so I can shoot a zillion of them.

We arrived in Red Lodge, found the hotel (in complete chaos… our room was still not ready even at 5pm?) so we checked in for the rally, and then I walked over to a grocery store 3 blocks away to get some extra batteries! My rechargables are powering up now, and my spares are in the camera. Tomorrow will be better!

We then put the car number on… for some odd reason they gave us #13(!) Given how UNLucky this car has been, I find it ironic that we’ve been assigned this one, but hey… go with the flow. So I blessed it with a clover leaf and the word “Lucky” with a green marker I had in the car:

I spent some time photographing the cars. There is a nice collection of machinery here, so I should have a great photographic week. Here is just a small sample:

We had a brief wine & cheese thing in the hotel bar, along with an intro meeting. The 65E was awarded the “Dirtiest Car” award with some cleaning supplies as the prize. Given that we drove almost 900 miles to get here I’m proud of that distinction! Cars are meant to be DRIVEN, not mollycoddled on trailers! 🙂

The drive out here was a great warm up for the event, and I’m really glad we did it. We then went into the hotel dining room for dinner. I excused myself midway through to drop off my cleaning supplies in the car and get it buttoned down for the night. It is all ready to go, and I hope you are ready to (virtually) tag along with us.

All my pictures from the day are posted here.

–chuck

Day Two: Missoula – Bozeman – Big Sky

Today was a short driving day. We left Missoula bright and early, heading east on America’s Autobahn, I-90. It may be a potholed “turnpike” in places out east, and it even is a pair of floating bridges that are a commuter’s nadir at its western end, but here in Montana it is an illustration of how well truly open roads function. Other than large trucks and RVs on steep grades, I never saw anything going LESS than 85 MPH today. Nobody was having accidents, nobody was recklessly endangering anyone else… we were all just driving. Everyone was reasonable and prudent when in proximity to other vehicles, but once alone, we all went as fast as we were comfortable going. For me that was 90-100 MPH. It is amazing how much ground you can cover at that speed.

Anyway, we left Missoula and passed a group of old Ford Model As heading east on I-90. I waved at them all. I soon left Mom & Dad in their truck behind, cruising in the E-type as its makers designed it to move. Then as I approached Drummond I realized that I was running low on gas, so I eased off to the posted speed limit (75 MPH) and watched the world pass me for a while. Eventually my parents caught up just as I was exiting to get gas. A fellow western WA native stopped to talk to me about the car as I filled up. I told him about the fires and smoke in Washington, and he filled me in that it was just as bad east towards Butte.

Once refilled I felt confident enough to run the car at speed again. Just some observations: At 4000 RPM the XK engine gets pretty loud. At that revs, with my US spec rear end ratio it is indeed being “driven in anger”, and holding it there for miles at a time the roar is a bit – well “roary”. As much as I enjoyed “making the ton” I found that easing off a mere 300 RPM (which dropped my speed to 90ish) was easier on the ears. That said, I did put my iPod in one ear (the left, which gets the lion’s share of wind buffeting) and let it roar for quite a while at 4000 RPM. 😉


Above: The author, grinning like the Cheshire Cat at Ludicrous Speed.

Butte required slowing to posted speed limits. It is a bit crowded in Montana terms, plus they have the road torn up and re-routed for construction. As I left Butte my eyes were stinging due to the amazing amounts of smoke. I-90 climbs up and over a big pass just east of Butte and the road was relatively crowded with big trucks and lumbering RVs. It wasn’t until I was down the far side that I returned to the flat valley bottom, was able to go fast again, and cleared from the really bad smoke.


Above: Looking back towards the continental divide and the thick smoke. In fact, you really can’t see any mountains, just the smoke!

In what seemed like a very short amount of time, I arrived in Belgrade, and stopped for a driver pit stop, plus top off my gas and oil. Mom & Dad arrived a bit later and informed me that we were going back onto I-90 for a run into Bozeman for lunch. We met some folks that will also be on the rally and ate at a car-themed place called ‘The Garage.” I had a great burger. Afterwards we headed south on US 191 towards Big Sky.


Above: Another roadside attraction south of Gallatin Gateway, MT.

I spent a good part of my childhood in this region. The Gallatin Canyon, Big Sky, Bozeman, etc. It is one of the places I have always considered “home”… though other than visits for weddings and funerals of family friends, I haven’t visited much in the past 20 years. My best friend was killed in a car accident here when I was 18 and after that, I left… finished college, and rarely came back. The memories are good, but being here, for a long time for me… was painful. So I stayed away.

It was odd to be here today. We drove up the Gallatin Canyon, and to the house of my dead best friend’s mother. (an odd way to refer to her here I know, but the most expedient and clear) When I was a kid, she was like my second mom. It was wonderful to see her. Great to see this landscape again too. The place has changed a LOT in the past quarter century… no longer a quiet little place in the middle of nowhere, but now a bustling, very expensive resort with condos and expensive homes everywhere that used to be sagebrush and lodgepole pine forest. It isn’t the place of a few hundred people I recall from the 70s anymore. My friend’s mom though lives above it all on a hillside in a wonderful home. Truly serene and relaxing. We spent the afternoon catching up (showing pictures of my kids, etc) and enjoyed a great dinner and wine, followed by drinks on the deck under the hazy, smoky moon and stars.

Tomorrow we leave my mom, here with my “second mom” for the week, while dad & I head off to Red Lodge for the rally. Ironically we’ll be back here at Big Sky the first night of the rally, but at a fancy hotel. Should be interesting to see my “hometown” as a tourist.

Smoke

That’s a GOES sat photo image of the area covering WA/ID/MT… notice the fires in the Blue Mountains in WA, and throughout central Idaho. I see a few fires in Montana too… could be a smoky week.

Day One: Arlington to Missoula

In Missoula MT at the moment. Had a great drive, over Stevens Pass on US2, then WA SR28 to Quincy, then 281 to I-90. Then 60-some miles of I-90 to Ritzville, then through a hazy, smoky Palouse along WA SR 261 to US 12. Lunch in Pomerory, where the haze and smoke from a nearby fire was astounding. We left the smoke when we climbed to the Alpowa summit west of Clarkson. In Lewiston I stopped for gas and noted that I had seen 20 MPG on the last tank. Not bad for the E-type! The next 50 miles were spent trying to get at the head of the car queue to get free for the best of US-12 through Idaho.

It was even better than that map looks! 77 miles of never-ending curves. I counted the 1/10ths of a mile when the steering wheel was slack, and it totalled about 5 of those 77 miles, and never more than 3/10ths of a mile was it ever continuously straight… I was always tugging the wheel left or right. It was heavenly. 🙂

Oh, and I only saw three other cars on that stretch.

There was some smoke in the air and it was also getting towards the end of the day… a sort of early and long-lasting dusk. As such, I was not confident enough to push the car to “Ludicrous Speed”… Instead I was driving aggressively, but not anywhere near the limits of the machine. Why? I really did NOT want to have a close encounter with a deer… or an elk, or a moose, or even a bear (this road skirts the northern edge of one of the largest Grizzly bear habitats on the planet. Part of it was on fire, so who knows what was wandering over the road!)

Even with my eyes playing “scanner” it was still a very enjoyable ride. I averaged 60-80 MPH at all times, and probably touched the brakes fewer than a dozen times. Two of those times were for some rather large deer prancing across my path. Thankfully I saw both with plenty of time to slow to a stop without any panic.

After I scraped all the bugs off my windscreen at the top of Lolo Pass, the road lost some altitude and had some long straights where I was able to get it up to a ton and just hold. it. almost. Forever.

Truly wonderful.

My parents are tagging along as well. They spent the past week visiting friends on Vancouver Island. They drove. Dad alternated between driving or riding with mom, and coming along with me. I took this montage on I-90 somewhere in central Washington:

All my photos are available for viewing here.